We met the rangers and other gorilla hikers at the park entrance. From there, we met Patience and Ludu who would be leading our adventure to meet the Sabyinyo family. They showed us a photo of the family members and gave us an overview on actions needed should the male silverback decided he wasn't too happy with one of us. He also casually mentioned that this silverback was over 600 pounds and the largest one in all of Rwanda. NBD. Size wise, gorillas are 3 times that of a human.
We hired 6 porters for $10 each, not because our packs were 3 lbs each but because they all stood at the entrance to our hike looking like their day was going to be much happier if we hired them. We were later told that most porters were once poachers and were now trained to help with restoration and longevity of the mountain gorillas. After 15 minutes, we found ourselves walking through small communities filled with kids running around in muddy torn clothing. Houses were mainly made of clay and it was apparent that most were living entirely off of the land.
It was muddy and when I say muddy I mean muddy. The rain was coming down hard and luckily we all were well equipped with our gear. About 40 minutes into our hike, Patience asked the porters to stay with our bags as we were about 5 minutes away. Knowing Africa time, we kept walking and were chatting when we all suddenly came to a halt. Straight ahead, I'm talking less than 5 feet, there was a massive black wet furry gorilla who was looking straight at me. I didn't even have to ask, this was THE silverback of the group. Patience made a low growl to let them know we were there and they didn't reply. We were told this was a good sign. They had told us we would be 3 car lengths away and I was counting less than a large bumper.
My eyes felt like they were bulging out of my head and I couldn't even grab my camera I was so stunned. Was he going to take off his gorilla suit soon? Why was he staring at me? Would he want to persuade me to stay and be one of his harem? I don't know how this was possible, but the rain started to pour down even more and Mr. Silverback closed his eyes because apparently 6 American females were quite uneventful and boring. Two minutes later, he turned his massive body so that we could only see his broad silverback. Four other gorillas were with him, a baby and a few females but he was by far the most entertaining. At one point, he growled out a 'wanna mate' to one of the she gorillas and she replied, 'no way' or maybe 'I'm too tired.' This is what our guide told us. Right before we left, Mr. Silverback hopped up on his hind legs and lept 10 feet to be closer to the rest of his family. He was so quick and MASSIVE.
It was a very quick but amazing and memorable hour.
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you have got to be kidding. this is the picture of the year. it's so nice that the guides have a little communication with these big fellas. i guess you still have to be on your toes because just like humans these massive animals could snap at anytime. i love that you got to see his entire back. what a brilliant species:):) luv.mum
ReplyDeletewhat an amazing experience, and I can just hear your voice telling this story while I read it! can't wait to hear more when your return... xo
ReplyDeleteno one else is allowed to talk at our next cc -- you have too much to fill us in on! xxoo, blythe
ReplyDeletea vicarious visit we are having. description is so close to our own experience. we sat in the clearing looking at them and they sat under the large leaves of the forest out of the rain. camera lens fogged and most photos came out cloudy as in cloudy/raining. great shot of the silver. frame it...Harald
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